I was asked recently by photographer Francesca Shirka about my ability to perform extreme makeup transformations. In my job, It’s not an everyday occurrence to totally transform a face into somebody else’s, but of course I was up for the challenge!
The first thing I requested was a makeup free face shot of the model to compare against her chosen celebrity, Rita Ora. With this in hand, I was able to study both faces and note what changes were needed to make Brook look more like Rita. Brook wanted to opt for Rita’s signature look, instantly bringing to mind those amazing lashes and red lips.
I began with, what I like to call, a complete colour block, making sure Brooks facial skin tone was completely even, including her lips and eye lips. This enabled me to build the look with the addition of contouring, high lighting and shading to all areas of the face.
I then started work on Brook's eye makeup, shading the crease line and creating definition to the eye shape. I did this subtly, as I wanted to use it for contouring rather than a ‘pretty’ eye makeup. Using matte neutral tones from the urban decays basics palette, I blended the shades to soften lines, adding depth to the eye socket and creating the illusion of a more prominent eyelid.
Next, came the classic 50’s inspired Eyeliner. I exclusively use Estee Lauder gel liner, as it’s such a fluid product to work with. I then added Eylure 075 lashes, halved and placed onto the outer corners of the eyes, preferring to then add lots of YSL Shocking Mascara to the top and bottom lashes, rather than lashes that were to ‘black’ to begin with. Then just a quick check over to make sure no shadow had fallen down; the eyes were complete!
I then moved on the skin and face shape. Brook had a slightly thinner face and heavier jaw line than Rita, so I used a dermacolour concealer kit to contour and highlight underneath the foundation. I then used Estee Lauders Double Wear Light in three different shades, to make sure all of the colours and lines were perfectly blended, without that thick cakey foundation look. Chanel Bronzer was added to compliment the skin and add some interest to a very matte finish.
Once the skin and eyes were complete it was time for the two defining looks; eyebrows and lips.
Rita has very sharp, defined eyebrows, so I used the black shadow from the Marvel eyebrow kit, applying with a very fine angled brush to create these brows and highlighting underneath to extremely define. The most important part of this stage is making sure everything is even.
Brooks mouth was slightly smaller than Rita’s, so I lined the outer side of the natural lip line, then adding width to the mouth by bringing the lip line out further than Brooks own. I used a Chanel lip pencil and Mac Matte Russian Red to fill the lips with this stunning colour.
The overall look took almost an hour after we had taken test shots and made some small changes, but overall I think it’s fair to say Brook made an amazing Rita Ora and I look forward to my next challenge!